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5 reasons Ecuador’s mountains are great for beginners
When the Victorian mountaineer Edward Whymper visited Ecuador in 1879 – ostensibly to study the effects of high altitude, but in reality to polish off a few first ascents in the High Andes – he was far...
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7 mountainous places to escape to for Christmas
This post is for people who love the outdoors and find Christmas a tedious bore. I know there must be some of you out there, and those of you who love it, look away now. Over the years I’ve found …...
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Christmas in Guatemala
It’s time for my annual migration from Britain to escape Noddy Holder and his elves (a strange image, but keep it with you). I’ve received lots of Christmas cards this year asking me what I’m going to...
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Peak bagging in Central America
I hate it when people do things just to tick boxes and say they’ve done it. Travelling’s all about enjoying the moment, whether it’s gazing upon a glorious view or immersing yourself in an unusual,...
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The Eighth Summit: the highest mountain in Central America
I thought my ascent of the highest mountain in Central America, an extinct 4220m volcano in Guatemala called Volcán Tajumulco, was going to be little more than a tick in the box, but that was far from...
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Climbing Kilimanjaro: a taster from my forthcoming book
I promised to provide an update on where I'm at with the book I've been threatening to publish about my journey from lowly hill walker to Everest summiteer. Here it is, along with a short teaser from...
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Cayambe and Chimborazo: Why Ecuador’s volcanoes are worth a second visit
Este artículo también está disponible en español. I ended my Ecuador diary In the Footsteps of Whymper with the following paragraph: It’s an enjoyable end to a very successful trip. I know Quito a lot...
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Peak bagging on the Equator
You can’t go far wrong with Ecuador if you’re into peak bagging: 28 volcanoes of various shapes and sizes, some lovely views and nice haciendas to relax at in between. I went there six years ago and...
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Chimborazo: the furthest mountain from the centre of the Earth
Exotic locations often have dubious superlatives applied to them, sometimes with little or no attempt at verification. The highest, the biggest, the oldest, the longest, the deepest: you see it all the...
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Vesuvius and the Path of the Gods
When I was in Ecuador last month I heard all about last year’s eruption on Cotopaxi. Although its last major eruption was in 1904, and there weren’t too many signs of activity when I peered down into...
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The BBC Top Gear Chimborazo fiasco
Last week I received the following email which, initially at least, caused me to roar with laughter. Hello Mr Horrell, My name is Richard Holder, a researcher with BBC Top Gear. We are currently...
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Kilimanjaro: returning to the crown of Africa
I’ve been thinking a lot about Kilimanjaro this year, ever since watching David Breashears’ film Kilimanjaro: To the Roof of Africa back in June. I was long overdue a return, and over Christmas I’ll be...
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The Tanzanian Mount Meru
Thanks to a hardcore climbing movie released in 2015, an obscure peak in the Indian Himalaya, that few people have ever climbed and not many more will ever see, is now the most famous Mount Meru in the...
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The best way to climb Kilimanjaro
In the Kilimanjaro chapter of Seven Steps from Snowdon to Everest, about my journey from hill walker to Everest climber, I described the Shira Route, that I used on my first ascent of Kilimanjaro, as...
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A brief introduction to Kilimanjaro’s volcanic crater
In my Kilimanjaro trip report last week, I enthused about Kilimanjaro’s inner crater, and said that I considered it to be the jewel in Kilimanjaro’s crown. Despite this, the overwhelming majority of...
View ArticleA night on Kilimanjaro’s summit: the videos
As many of you will know, I write a lot of waffle in this blog which you sometimes can’t be bothered to read. For example, the Kilimanjaro trip report I wrote last month came to an eye-glazing 5,000...
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Ice needles and guinea pigs: acclimatising in Ecuador
The fun is over. Tomorrow the serious business of cycling up Chimborazo begins. Our aim is to cycle from sea level then climb to the summit, with a bit of hiking in between. I have no illusions. It’s...
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Is Cotopaxi now safe to climb?
We returned from a few days relaxation in the Amazon jungle earlier this week to learn that the Ecuadorian government was about to reopen Cotopaxi for climbing. This was exciting news for Edita, who is...
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Cotopaxi, a short climbing history: a teaser from my next book
Last Friday I reached the summit of another metaphorical mountain. After seven months of intensive scribbling (bar a couple of short holidays and a spot of paid work) I finished the first draft of my...
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A short scramble up Rumiñahui, the stone-faced Inca warrior
I made my first close acquaintance with Cotopaxi, Ecuador’s highest active volcano, when we climbed Rumiñahui, an attractive peak of three rocky summits a stone’s throw to the north-west. There is a...
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